2005 Henriot Champagne Cuvee Hemera [D97][WE96][WS93][WA91]

"This long awaited new prestige cuvée, Hemera - named after the ancient Greek goddess of daytime - is a perfectionist creation of Henriot’s villages, all grands crus. It's a brilliant medley of top Chardonnay from cooler Chouilly and the poised weight of Avize and Mesnil, combined with equally rigorous grand cru Pinot from north Montagne, Mailly and Verzenay. 2005 saw a cold winter, mild spring and very hot July into August, with humidity causing rot in Pinot Noir in the minor sites. The Chardonnay was more successful in the warmth of September, giving a rich, Burgundian style. This has a gold tinged colour and an exquisite mousse, with full Chardonnay aromas of apricots, citrus fruits, toast and honey. It has a masterly grand cru Pinot mouthfeel of satin, subtle and honeyed, intense without heaviness. The lower dosage of 5g/l makes it an ideal match with fish. Aged on its lees for 12 years." 

"Only produced in the top years, this wine, named apparently after the Greek goddess of daylight, has just achieved maturity. It is rich in notes of almonds and toast that meld together with the ripe white fruits. It's a great wine that is impressive and ready to drink, although it will also easily age further." 

"Rich hints of baked plum and marzipan are enlivened by sleek, well-knit acidity in this harmonious Champagne. The fine, lively mousse carries flavors of poached quince, honeysuckle, smoked hazelnut and lemon pith. Drink now through 2028." 

"The inaugural release of the new tête de cuvée from Henriot, the 2005 Cuvée Hemera is a blend of equal parts Chardonnay (from Chouilly, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger) and Pinot Noir (from Mailly, Verzy and Vezernay) that was aged for 12 years sur lattes and disgorged with five grams per liter dosage. The wine is still quite tight-knit after its recent disgorgement, unwinding in the glass with a refined bouquet of ripe citrus fruit, crisp yellow apple, lemon confit and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and concentrated, with a layered, tight-knit core, racy acids and a precise, chalky finish. It's a very creditable effort in the challenging 2005 vintage—and a Champagne that I admired for its depth and precision—so it will be interesting to taste future releases from more propitious years."